2010
06.18

2010-06-17 Yesterday

Yesterday was just as long. Took the Flybus from the SAS Radisson Hotel in Bergen to the airport, boarded a plane to Oslo, had a transfer and flew to Tromsø. Arrived here and took the airport bus to the Thon Hotel Tromsø, a pretty cool hotel in the city centre.

I just had a quick nap and got Bus 26 to the Cable Car. It offers a magnificent view of Tromsø and surroundings. The best part is that it operates until 00:30 as this time of year the sun doesn’t set in Tromsø as Tromsø is situated about 69 degrees north and is therefore in the Arctic Circle. Tromsø enjoys about 2 months of endless sunshine and 2 months of perpetual darkness per year.

After the cable car visit I walked down to the Arctic Cathedral. A magnificent and daring architectural design. They have midnight concerts this time of year that starts at 23:30 and ends at midnight, in time to catch the last bus back to Tromsø. I decided to walk back though.

The concert consists of several traditional Sami and northern Norwegian religious and other songs, the most beautiful of them a Sami song about the midnight sun. They threw in a Grieg piece here and there too. I figured he must be Norwegian then. It was one of the most stunning and fitting performances I ever had the pleasure of attending. If you have to visit Norway just for this, it is absolutely worth it.

So finally I made my way back to the hotel and try to fall asleep around 02:00 with the room still semi-dark even though the curtains are closed. I think my internal clock is going haywire, as I only woke up around 15:00 this afternoon.

2010
06.18

The day before yesterday was the day where I repeated our fjord tour of two years ago. Where we saw it then in winter on a grey day with snow everywhere, I had the chance to see it now in summer. I told my mother that I was not as impressed as I was two years ago. I think we as South Africans are used to green mountains and blue water. Although the scenery was absolutely splendid, and outdo anything I’ve seen in Switzerland, the snow covered peaks were what it made it that more special.

The tour is arranged by fjordtours.no and is a combination of available public transport and their boat on the fjords. There are options of round tours and one way tours from to and from Bergen and Oslo.

This tour is called Norway in a Nutshell, and starts in Bergen at 08:40. One boards a public regional train to Myrdal, takes the Flam railway to Flam, travel by boat on the fjords to Gudvangen, travel by bus to Voss and back by train. It arrives around 20:40 in Bergen. This was a long day. The previous time we did it the tour went the other way around and wasn’t as long or exhausting.

Perhaps because I had company then.

The URL to all these sites I will add later. So do watch this space if you are interested.

I didn’t spent any much time in Bergen as I had to pack to get up after 05:00 the next morning.

2010
06.16

Yesterday, 2010-06-15

I got up real early today to catch my airport shuttle. The driver was 7 minutes late and apologised. But he made up every minute on the way to the airport! Had some very fancy manoeuvres on the road.

Caught my flight to Oslo. Watched a bit of Lost and napped a bit. It was a bit too cloudy to see anything of the landscape.

Arrived in Oslo and checked-in for the flight to Bergen. My suitcase put on some weight and don’t ask me how. I even left my ‘Let Go Europe 1997’ travel guide in Istanbul as the thing probably weighs half a kilogram. It is seriously outdated anyway, as one can expect. I had to pay in NOK 100. I was not very happy. The bloody flight was half empty and my mother who paid for her ticket wasn’t ever there. When this happens in South Africa I’m sort of OK with it, but then it happens in the wealthiest country in the world, I just get seriously upset.

The flight to Bergen was only 40 minutes. When my mother and I visited Norway 2 years ago in the dead of winter, things were so quiet. In sharp contrast to the troops of visitors scurrying and fighting for the best seats on the train and the first spot on the Flybus. Never was the bus too full but yesterday I had to wait for the next one.

Arrived at my hotel – Thon Bergen Brygge, a quite modern hotel with free Wi-Fi. When I arrived there it was cordoned off by the police and I didn’t understand why. Going for a stroll to the train station to pick up our tickets for today, I noticed that everybody had Rammstein T-Shirts on. The police was there for the concert and the entrance to the castle where the concert was to be was practically 50 meters from the hotel entrance.

I decided to put the Wi-Fi to full use and uploaded all my picture and iPod videos to my domain – just in case…

I contemplated going but it’s kind of a put off if Norwegians tell you the tickets are expensive. R900 a ticket would have been the most expensive ticket I ever bought, but after careful consideration I decided not to go. I could anyway listen to the entire concert by just opening the window in my room. It was quite spectacular I must admit.

Watched the final episode of Season 4 in bed and struggled to fall asleep. The curtains still let some of the sunshine through at 23:00.

It is practically a different world from the one we visited in January/February 2008 when the sun was up between about 09:00 and 15:00, and now when it’s shining from 04:00 to 23:30 with no trace of snow.

2010
06.14

2010-06-14 19:59 GMT+03 Istanbul

Today was a relaxed day. Got up when I felt like it and visited the Grand Bazaar for some souvenir shopping. What an amazing place, and I’m not one for these kind of markets.

And the whole time I’m walking I’ve got this song by Laurika Rauch in my head: ‘O So Sentimenteel.’ One of the lyrics goes something like ‘Hy’t my iets moois gekoop op ‘n mark in Istanbul.’

They love their tea. There are people walking around with tea and sugar from shop to shop selling tea. And then there are people that clean shoes and those who sells mielies and waatlemoen. Everyone seems to be busy doing something.

At the Grand Bazaar, almost like in Singapore and Phuket, they have these people outside the stores doing just waiting to make eye contact with anyone to lure them into their shops. And so it was with Hasan, I think. He’s got a carpet store and with he’s 12 brothers (I couldn’t figure out whether they are 12 real brothers or brothers in the sense that Desmond means it) they got any kind of store you can think of. He’s store is my house he said. And for any other shopping requirements he escorted me to some of his brothers and their shops.

I’m happy. I got some cool stuff.

Back at the hotel, airconditioning was waiting.

Dinner and breakfast were at the same place. Beef shawarma and Coke.

My parents Skyped me. I’m so proud of them.

Tomorrow at 06:00 the airport shuttle will pick me up and at 08:25 I’m off to Oslo and 15:00 on to Bergen.

2010
06.14

Goliat

2010
06.14

Turkey / Istanbul

This year, Istanbul is the 2010 European Capital of Culture

Hotel Grand Ons, Istanbul

She Tours, Istanbul

Turkish Airlines

2010
06.13

2010-06-13 GMT+03 Istanbul

I couldn’t sleep last night. Lay awake till after midnight pondering upon the secrets of the island and only got up after 10:00.

I decided to go to Taksim Square after I had breakfast at McDonalds – it’s just something I had to do. Taksim sounds like a cool place that represents the modern part of Istanbul, but on a Sunday fairly little seem to be happening there. I walked down to the sea and crossed the bridge over the Golden Horn where hundreds of men are fishing. They sit there in the midday sun and there is no sign of sweat at all. Also weird is that most men here wear vests. Maybe because they wear white shirts…? I would die of heat stroke.

I enquired about a cruise on the Bosphorus as I haven’t booked for an official one. I got this dude on a taxi boat to take me to the Bosphorus Bridge and back. That was pretty awesome. If only YouTube was accessible…

And after that I made my way back to the hotel. It was really hot and the sun got to me and I was tired. I am on holiday after all and I can do what I want. Had a nap and wandered up the street to a little restaurant that serves shawarmas. Sat there and watched the people walk by. They sprinkle the sidewalk with water every now and then. To cool it down they say. Thank goodness someone else admits is hot too.

Now I’m in the hotel’s restaurant with a spectacular view of the Marmara Sea and downing 1.5l water as the sun is setting in the west.

Now I can say I was in Constantinople too.

2010
06.13

Prayer Time

Prayer Time

2010
06.12

2010-06-12 21:08 GMT+03 Istanbul

Today was too long. I got tired towards the end of the tour. I have seen enough cathedrals and mosques to last me a lifetime.

We visited the Hippodrome, the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Grand Covered Bazaar, the Topkapi Palace and a small mosque close to the spice bazaar that I’m struggling to find the name of.

Most impressive was the Grand Covered Bazaar though.

There was a man from Pakistan. Very friendly but with a very difficult accent. He decided that I shall be his partner for the day. Told me everything. The Pakistan word for everything. The rice industry in Pakistan. The type of grass guests can sleep on in October in the hot parts of Pakistan when there are lots of marriages. The Top 10 most visited countries. I know about his 3 sons, his PhD and his 6 masters’ degrees and how cricket was invented in England for them to actually do something outdoors and see the sun, and how it is a sport for lazy people.  The difference between advertising during a sport like football and cricket is also different as the cameras leaves the action, focuses on ads and then go back to the next ball, unlike in soccer where the camera follows the action. I wanted to explore the Grand Bazaar, instead he actually grabbed my hand as not to lose me in the crowd. He says Pakistan was a lovely carefree and safe country, but after 9/11 the CIA is behind the suicide bombings. Women in Pakistan may not smoke in public, unlike here in Turkey where just about everyone seems to be smoking. Mr Pakistan got somewhat agitated around lunch that the place we went to for lunch did not have praying facilities. He missed his one prayer and was explaining how and what he must do to make up for it. He said something about being more than 48 miles or something away from home so prayer time is reduced by half…?

Tomorrow the Grand Bazaar is closed. I will go back there on Monday.

Yesterday at the airport I asked the dude who promotes these tours if I am properly dressed for the occasion, as I read that they are very strict on dress code in the mosques. I had long pants and a T-Shirt on. He said yes, one can wear shorts but he would advise wearing pants as (and this is the weird part) it can become quite chilly during the day. The guy from Pakistan also mentioned the lovely weather we had today. While sweat is pouring down my face and back.

There were actually very few English people on the tour today. The guide we had this morning was very impressed with South African people. She says all the South Africans (me included) she has on her tours are very ‘warm blooded’ and friendly, not snobbish like most Europeans. The afternoon guide’s face lit up when he realised I’m South African and not American. The waiter at the restaurant thought I’m crazy for visiting Istanbul when the World Cup is in South Africa. In general everyone wants to know where you’re from, whether it is your first time in Turkey and how long you will be staying. I must admit though that I’m not getting blank stares back and that most people seem to have heard about us.

And YouTube doesn’t work in Turkey. Some site pops up informing one in Turkish of some pending court case. Google Earth also doesn’t seem to be able to connect at all.

Hazelnuts. Lots and lots of hazelnuts. Relatively cheap and awesome. I don’t think I’ve had much hazelnut except for Nutties. And watermelon they sell on the street – divine.

Space seems to be an issue. It feels crowded doesn’t matter where I go. Everyone seems to bump into me or the other way around. Maybe they’re used to it as the pictures do seem to show pretty crowded mosques Friday afternoons.

Anyway, it’s late and I’m tired and I’m on holiday and Charlie just drowned in The Looking Glass and Jack contacted Naomi’s ship and Ben is mad and Locke is disappointed.

2010
06.11

2010-06-11 20:45 GMT+03

The Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul was quite pleasant. No major incident as they seem to have quite a lot of (Wikipedia).  The flight wasn’t very full and I had a seat open next to me. The flying time to Istanbul is more or less 9 hours and considering the first two hours is spent eating and settling in and the last two hours is spent eating and settling ‘out’ there was only about 5 hours to kill. That also means if one depart from Johannesburg at 19:25 and arrive here 04:25 South African time, one is woken up at 02:25 in the morning for breakfast!

The onboard entertainment was really pathetic though. Only one unrecognisable movie that’s tape was so bad that they stopped it midway – or I fell asleep, come to think of it.

I like to think that I’m thorough when planning things, but every time I miss something. I thought the spell was broken when KLM changed their flight schedule with almost 1.5 hours and I’m missing my connection in Oslo when returning, but this morning was quite frustrating too.

I don’t bother exchanging money before I leave. I withdraw money wherever I come. Except that it’s flawed when you arrive at an airport, where you need to pay in either dollars or euro for a visa and the only ATM is broken. You cannot go through passport control to get money on the other side if you don’t have the visa. If only they could accept Visa or Masters Card, the situation could have been resolved in a more peaceful manner, but no, they were offline or something. If only the information desk and the Turkish Airlines transfer desk tried to help instead of just shrugging at English that would have been appreciated.

If only I could ask some of the Afrikaans people on the plane to help me with money and repay them on the other side, that could’ve worked, except by the time I realised the full extent of my dilemma, they were probably having breakfast in their hotels.

If only security would allow me to go through to the transfers hall without a boarding pass for a connecting flight, I could have withdrawn money there.

It’s not cool being stuck in no man’s land.

And cool this weather is anything but. Today reached a maximum of 31 degress Celsius and Istanbul is famous for its humidity.

So by the time I did make it to the other side, I was drenched.

At least they didn’t confiscate my luggage for spinning round and round and round on the conveyer.

So, got myself enough euros and enough dollars and enough Turkish Lira for any small to moderate emergency that may arise.

Booked a shuttle to the hotel and back for Tuesday and a city tour for tomorrow right there and then, so I’m sorted.

At the hotel they let me have my room early which was great. I relaxed the entire day with just a small excursion here and there to orientate myself in my new surroundings. I have to stock up on water, as there is no mini-bar to raid in the middle of the night.

My only other planned activity was to watch the opening ceremony and the first match, but actually didn’t find a place showing it. But then, I thought it started at night and not early this afternoon.

Went to get lunch at a restaurant down the road and got a SIM on Turkcell for the immediate internet requirements.

Explored the swimming pool on the top floor. What a glorious view of the Marmara Sea and the finest collection of ships and vessels I’ve ever seen!

Now it’s rather late, but the sun only sets after 20:30. My parents phoned and I’m happy with what I accomplished.

On Istanbul

I find it strange how the European cities are into fashion. This entire section where my hotel are is flooded with fashion stores. And it’s bizarre how each nook and cranny is filled with a shop.

I forgot my toothbrush and the place where I found a new one is so small, I could not turn around in the store with my backpack (and I couldn’t take it off either). I had to reverse out of the store.

The people seem to be rather pleasant and relaxed. I’ve only been here a few hours but I’ve already noticed that ‘doing something quickly’ is not something one can bargain on.

I also expected all the women to be dressed up as Turkey is about 99% Islam, but only for the woman at the airport who absolutely positively needed to lift her veil for a few hundred microseconds only to assure the passport control dude that she looks like her passport picture (and I’m still thinking he gave her the benefit of the doubt) they don’t dress that much different. Maybe tomorrow when I’m visiting the mosques, things will be different.

As for the view from my hotel, it reminds me of two places. Lisbon and Casablanca. Lisbon for the sea and the remnant castle thingies along the shore like Belem and Casablanca for the disarray of houses and satellite dishes and bad state of buildings. But I am in the older part of the city they’ve assured me.

2010
06.11

Into Turkey

2010
06.10

Here it is

OR Tambo, 2010-06-10 18:00

Are we in the news or what? Driving here with Michael from EZShuttle, we were listening to Metro.  He panicked. The traffic was hectic all the way to the airport and he had to be back in Sandton by 18:00.

Then I was blessed with a few hours of electricity today.  Power outages the entire day. Probably allocating it to the stadiums.

The airport is in mass exodus mode. I have never seen it this busy, especially international departures. Seems we’re flocking away. There have been quite a few travel deals lately for those trying to miss the World Cup. As far as I know all schools are closed for the entire duration of the World Cup.

In Beijing the government asked the people to behave. I was waiting for it and yesterday it started. The government appeals to the people to behave, not to vandalise public transport, not to strike and to sit on their allocated seats.

They read the stadium rules surrounding the matches. No cameras? Surely that cannot be true. And not to publish results or broadcast sound from the matches on any electronic media, including the internet. That’s a weird one. As if our unstable mobile telephone networks will actually be able to handle 80,000 people in Soccer City.

It’s a mixed feeling day. For years we’ve been waiting for this moment and tomorrow it’s here. For months I’ve been looking forward to this trip and here it is. Even the Gautrain is up and running. Will the entire country be in anticlimax mode a month from now? Or is that when the purge is starting?

So here I am. International departures. Flight TK 041 to Istanbul. My mother is not joining me as my father has fallen ill with cancer. And this time I’m not stressed. My biggest stress is how I am going to get everything on the internet on time. My netbook has been bought specifically for this and upgraded to handle the demanding pace of international travel and social networking. I’m geared for this.

May I, my family and friends, South African and the World have a wonderful and blessed time in the coming weeks.

2010
06.06

My first YouTube video

2010
06.04

World Cup Fever

So World Cup Fever has hit South Africa hard. Just flags everywhere, especially the highway to the airport. Quite impressive although I would have used bigger flags and banners and have all the poles straight and in line, like the Chinese during the Olympics you know. Guess it adds some African flair.

I guess they are still a bit busy making sure the highways are fine. What a mission the N3 south towards the airport is!

They got this new scanner before security. Instead of checking your boarding card they scan it in! Wonders what a World Cup can do.

2010
06.01

A nice travel article on Ibiza.

Island shows a big heart for little perritos : Europe.

2010
04.09

фотографии

Some pictures of my trip to Moscow.

2010
04.06

Commenting

I’ve changed the commenting rules in the hopes that it would sort out Deon’s problem that he cannot comment.

I know there is not a lot of people reading my site, so I can personal attention here.

One now has to be registered and logged in again, but the comment should be immediately allowed if you have commented before.

Please, Etienne, Deon, try and see if you can comment.

Log in is in the Meta Category, at the bottom of the right sidebar.

Thanks

Charles

2010
04.06

2010-04-06 Moscow, 20:50 GMT+04

And just when I thought I’ve pretty much seen the highlights of Moscow.

I visited Lenin’s Mausoleum today. I’ve never encountered the word. According to dictionary.com a mausoleum is a large stately tomb or a building housing such a tomb or several tombs.

When Lenin died his body was embalmed and displayed in a wooden mausoleum on Red Square. Later on this mausoleum was built but it was and still seems to be a controversial topic. He’s body is being treated continuously.

Again, all bags to go to a cloak room. R10 fee. One is scanned and watched by guards at all time. The mausoleum is pretty dark inside and it takes a moment or two to adapt to the low lightning. No speaking, no hats, no sunglasses, no hands in pockets. Alanis would have disapproved I think. One has to keep moving too. So for about 30 seconds one has the opportunity to see Lenin’s body in a glass coffin. He is dressed in a suit, one fist clinched. He is lying on his back in a stately manner. There are those that say it’s a waxwork. Apparently it costs about a million dollars per year to preserve his body and keep him in mint condition.

Then on my way to the Toy Store of yesterday I had to take a picture of the Bolshoi Theatre. Under serious reconstruction it seems.

I’ve seen this store called TsUM before, but didn’t pay much attention. Well, all that changes when one doesn’t want to pay 20 roubles for using those rent-a-toilet contraptions.

The surprise of my life. A 5 storey fashion and accessory store, the likes of which I’ve never seen in my life before – anywhere in the world. I cannot describe in English how ultra-modern and shiny and elegant this place is. Floors of only the best and expensive designer labels there is. Not that I’m into fashion, thank goodness. But this is probably where those people stating that Moscow is the most expensive city of all shop.

Unfortunately, photos not allowed.

To top it all off, there is a section for pet fashion, mostly dogs. And I’m not talking the kind of fashion you find at the pet store around the corner that you buy when you don’t know what to give Wagter for Christmas, I’m talking designer fashion. I didn’t know there was designer labels for dogs. Check this out: doggidog, Paris, Juicy Couture, Roberto Cavalli, Le Doggy Couture etc.

I asked them very nicely if I can take this picture. I specifically had Etienne in mind. This is an original sweater by Doggy Couture. If I had to take a guess the dog mannequin is not taller than about 30cm. It’s most definitely not Pablo-size. Take a guess now how much this sweater is? (The answer will follow at the bottom of this blog)

So after having a Coke in the Cafe I set forth to find the largest collection of Nesting Dolls in the Detskiy Mir Toy Store. After not finding it, again, I asked one of the men in uniform where it is. He managed to say that it’s closed. Now whether it is closed on Tuesdays, which is highly likely or whether it is permanently closed, I don’t know, but I’m not even disappointed anymore if stuff is closed. I guess one must be in Moscow at least one week to find everything open on at least one day. At least this was a boost for my ego.

I felt seriously stupid last night in the bath when I realised after 4 days in Moscow I still cannot count to 3 in Russian. Russian children must be extremely clever I decided. I’m sure they can count to 10 at least.

So with that off my list, the last remaining item on my itinerary wish list was Gorky Park or Park Kultury as it is called nowadays. I’ve read they have a seriously cool ride where you blast off into space. Closed. Not more than one sigh later I just walked all the way back to the Metro.

I’d seen a Panda nesting doll I decided I needed so I went back to the Square to get it. First had some lunch at Planet Sushi, got my final souvenirs and came back to the hotel.

By now I am packed and ready to go. Tomorrow I will check out, get a taxi to take me to my Metro station, make my way to Paveletskaya and get the Aeroexpress to Domodedovo. Lufthansa will fly me to Frankfurt and onwards to London. And back home on SAA. An Eazycab taxi will pick me up at Jan Smuts and take me home.

I’ve been wondering if English is as difficult and foreign to them as Russian is to us. Knowing how I struggle with Russian, I admire the Russian people that try to speak English. I do try to ask my questions in Russian, but I guess they immediately realise they’re not dealing with a native. As long as they just don’t think I’m American.

I assume in the communist regime they probably were as strict as China is on Google on foreign influences. Even now there is absolutely no reason for them to speak English. Their movies and everything is translated into Russian.

However, they do have more contact with our alphabet and with English as we have with Russian. I assume over a prolonged period they pick up some English. There is also a greater motivation to speak English than there is for us to speak Russian.

At the end of the day I can just say that I have thoroughly enjoyed my stay in Moscow. It was a wonderfully pleasant and enlightening experience, one I recommend to all.

до свидания. Cheers.

The price of the sweater is R1600 (South African Rand)

2010
04.05

2010-04-05 Moscow 21:47 GMT+04

Today was a really long day. But I knew that when I was getting up at seven this morning. I wanted to end the day on Red Square in the evening to take some night pictures, but at 20:30 I gave up. They don’t seem to light up St. Basil’s Cathedral at night.

I was probably the first one having breakfast. Breakfast is a bit dull I must admit. That’s usually where I make sure I don’t have to eat again till late afternoon. They have this baked pudding thing and brown rolls that look like chocolate rolls. But I think both of them get a fare share of vinegar or something.

Checked the weather online before I left and they forecasted cloudy conditions. Yeah right. Until it started raining just as I left the Metro Station on my way to the Monument of Space Travel. I watched an insert on TV last night where they told the story of a physicist in St. Petersburg who won the Nobel Prize a couple of years ago and how he is a celebrity in Russia. They treat their scientists with admiration and respect it seems. The monument is awesome. It was built in 1964 after Russia launched the first man into space. Even I felt a sense of pride in their accomplishments.

The museum was closed though. That is a really frustrating thing. Things are closed on some days for no reason. The space museum is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. The Lenin Mausoleum is closed on Mondays. Even the Moscow circus didn’t have performances today. On top of that, things open late, like 10:00 or so in the mornings but then stay open till very late. At least the biggest toy store in Russia was open – if only I could find it in time.

Then I ventured over to the ‘VVTs’ the Rough Guide calls it. Not sure what to make of it. Apparently it’s like an exhibition centre / fairground / shopping centre. According to the Rough Guide the Ferris wheel was supposed to open at 10:00. Nope. I checked. At least there was some nice Russian music blaring from this one store. And since it was raining and I was getting seriously annoyed, I entered. It was on my list of things to do to just enter a CD store and buy the current #1 CD. Well, a few minutes later I walked out with some Russian Rock, Russian Pop, a Russian Disco and some compilation CD. All for just R150. A bargain if there ever was one.

I took myself up on my promise to see a Russian movie, and since it was raining and my back started aching I decided to venture over to a Cinema Complex I’ve seen earlier. Booked the first movie that was showing. It wasn’t a Russian movie though, but the names didn’t sound to Hollywood so it suited me perfectly. R25 for a movie. I don’t know how much I paid for the popcorn and Pepsi, but I’m pretty sure it was almost R40. I just had to keep forking out money until she was happy.

The movie’s name is Dear John. Its different watching a foreign language film with subtitles and watching an English film dubbed into Russian with no subtitles. They really have to act to get the message across. I really recommend it. I thought it was dubbed very very well. They really captured the emotions and tone very well.

This guy, John, and this girl, Savannah, are in love. But due to circumstances they cannot be together until the end of the movie when they kissed. For dramatic effect he is a soldier in the US army without email and Skype, so they have to write each other letters.

There, I just saved you 100 roubles.

I wasn’t sure what to do next, so I hopped over to this little restaurant thingy that serves hot pancakes with ice cream. That gave me the opportunity to browse through my rough guide to find the next best thing to do.

Hopped on the train to Kolomenskaya. A park with a wooden church built centuries ago. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s right next to the river and apparently very peaceful. Luckily it stopped raining, and I really enjoyed the stroll down to the river. Today I had my compass with me so at least I got there first time round. My sense of direction is pretty much non-existent here.

I still had a few hours to kill before sunset, so I decided that the Moscow Circus sounds interesting. Hopped on the train to the circus but that was closed. Tomorrow too. Saw the Pizza Hut. Awesome pizza. Maybe I was hungry. I’m sure I’ve walked a marathon though the past few days. That turned out quite expensive. A medium pizza is close to a R100.

I read about an animal theatre, where real animals perform a story. But, only open Wednesdays to Saturdays.

Then decided to go visit the Toy Store. On the map it seemed rather straightforward getting there. Yeah right. Still haven’t found it. Eventually I ended up on Red Square where I wanted to be. Spent some time waiting for the sun to set and the lights to come on. Probably would have waited still if I didn’t decide to return to base.

There are police and guards everywhere. I don’t get the impression that it is in response to last week’s attacks. Almost every large store or museum or even the cinema have metal detectors and they will inspect any bag. I can’t figure out who’s who, but most of the men in uniform seem awfully young. I think Russians do look younger than they are, but some of them really don’t look a day older than 16. There are ‘police’ with guard dogs everywhere and they visibly increase in numbers towards the evening.

Apparently the Russians have a thing for alcohol and the increase in security towards the night is to prevent brawls.

On the question if Russian women really are that beautiful… I’ve given it some thought. I would have to say yes – but hear me out. The average daily temperature at the moment I would say is about 8-10 degrees. So everyone, just like in most of Europe, is wearing some sort of proper long black jacket. They do tend to go for dark colours, black mostly, and the women do wear nice shoes or boots with stockings. So without trying, everybody, including the men, gives a ‘formal’ impression. The people seem to be well groomed, including the men. It’s odd to see a man with long hair. Most of the men look like they had a haircut very recently – the type of haircuts we had when I was in school – almost military style. Apart from that, the people, like in Scandinavia have beautiful fair skin, especially the younger people. They also seem to have a fashion sense. Even men are wearing Armani jackets for example. Also, many Russians have striking facial features, different from the Europeans – think of Nikolay Davydenko or Marat Safin for example.

I think what I’m trying to say is that to our South African eye, they stand out. You notice them and take notice of them. On the Metro they’re also in your face. Rarely does one have the opportunity to just check people out like on the underground. Чеховская to Владыкино twice a day is a long time to do nothing.

So, not everybody is an Anna Kournikova, but it’s not surprising that Anna Kournikova is Russian. If you know what I mean.

2010
04.04

2010-04-04 Moscow 20:52 GMT+04

Approximate prices in South African Rand as I encountered them.

Hard Rock Cafe: 600ml Pepsi (Coke is not very big in Russia), Bacon and Cheese Burger and Hot Fudge Sundae:

R200

Standard McDonalds Big Mac Meal:

R35

Seriously Upsized McDonalds Big Mac Meal:

R50

Entrance to Kremlin Armour Museum:

R140

Entrance to Kremlin (excluding Armour Museum):

R90

Leaving bag in cloak room at Kremlin:

R15

Aeroexpress train from Domodedove to Paveletskaya – 45 minutes:

R65

Single ride on Metro:

R7

Taking a suitcase on Metro:

R7

Pepsi and Chicken Sandwich at Illy in Gum (compare to Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton City):

R72

20 Ride ticket on the Metro:

R115

Permission to take pictures inside St. Basil Cathedral:

R40

600ml Still Water, 600ml Sparkling Water, 600ml Pepsi from small cafe thingy around the corner:

R22

Coke can from mini-bar:

R15

160GB iPod in Gum:

R3000

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